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When did my love affair with fast food chains begin to end?

Was it when A&G Foods of Baltimore sold its Gino’s hamburger joints (named for Baltimore Colt star Gino Marchetti) and the Super Gino, a sweeter and better version of the Big Mac, vanished forever?

Was it when Colonel Sanders died and the company he built began changing the ingredients so that KFC never tasted as good again?

Was it when, after a harangue by Ralph Nader, McDonalds led the way in replacing beef tallow with coconut and palm oil to deep-fry the French fries? It doesn’t taste as good but it’s still bad for you.

Well done, Dr. Evil.

Now comes Burger King, romancing moms with new kid meals including apples cut in the shape of French fries and served with a syrupy dipping sauce.

This takes things to a new level. After all, in replacing beef tallow with tropical tree lard, all McDonald’s did was keep something unhealthy that had been unhealthy to begin with. Burger King has taken something that is good for you and figured out how to make it bad for you.

Now, let’s be clear: I am no health food nut. I am a heavy man who never diets and subsisted in my twenties on beef, cheese and chocolate. But I’ve got to tell you that as I get older, I am acquiring an appetite for good foods — apples, actually, and broccoli, and spinach, and sushi and poke and sashimi.

Bad-for-you foods that I used to love don’t have the same appeal they used to. I still love beef and cheese and chocolate but I haven’t had ice cream in months.

The weirdest development is that I discovered I like vegetarian sausage.

Hey, come on, stop laughing.

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